Walk down Graham Avenue between Frost and Withers Streets and you'll see a predominately residential Italian neighborhood. Located far from the Bedford Avenue crowds, this East Williamsburg spotin one of the borough's quiet, not-so-hip areasis home to this terrific new pint-sized French bistro. The space is filled with antique-looking exposed-filament bulbs (replicas of the first model created by Con Edison); wood, slate and concrete walls; and cherry-maple wood tables. The owners, both French expats, have stocked the menu with bistro classics: An appetizer of steamed mussels is served in a terra-cotta crock with an addictive buttery and garlicky white-wine-and-shallot sauce (best sopped up with pieces of chewy baguette). Among the entres, the roasted chicken with mushrooms fricassee and spinach (pictured) was most notable for its delightfully tender and juicy meat and for the way the chef cooked the skin to a perfect crisp (the secret: the bird is marinated in lime juice before cooking). The terra-cotta crock pops up again in the monkfish Provenal, which is served, like the mussels, in a hearty, savory and warming stewthis time filled with large pieces of flaky fish, potatoes, onions, tomatoes, garlic and parsley, and topped with buttered crostini.